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Some know that it is much better 'there', in Bolivia, now. But they do not associate it with socialism or with the independent and pro-people policies of President Evo Morales. And they know very little about Venezuela.
All they know is that they were barely surviving on Altiplano, and that they are fighting for their lives, here, in La Rinconada.
Like in Indonesia, another savage pro-Western capitalist regime, people here are too preoccupied with their immediate essential problems; they cannot be bothered with 'abstract' thoughts about the environment, or lawlessness.
I see people pissing in the middle of the street.
"It is not just mercury," I am told. "Everything here is mixed: poisons related to mining, urine, s**t, urban waste"
The altitude is hitting me hard. 4,000 in Puno is bad; over 5,000 here is fatal. I am being held by two people as I film on the edge of a ravine, in order not to fall down.
Somehow, in a very twisted way, I acknowledge that the vistas around me are beautiful, stunning. I am impressed. Impressed by the ability of human beings to survive under almost any conditions.
Virtually all of this is illegal. But hundreds of millions are made, and washed.
People gain nothing; almost nothing. A miner makes 800 to 1,000 Soles (roughly $250 to $300) per month. Private companies and corrupt government gain billions. Once again, Latin America is getting poorer. But the West is not pushing for 'regime change' in Peru, or in Paraguay, or Brazil. This is how it is supposing to be; this is how Washington likes it.
Another miner dares to talk to me:
"Most of the gold goes abroad. But before it does" If gangs do not rob us, miners, at night, they often murder small middlemen, those who buy gold directly from us."
Is he scared?
"Everyone here is scared," he confirms. "Scared and sick. This is hell."
"It is like a war-- I utter.
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