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Belgraders

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Linh Dinh
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"Every day?!"

"Every day."

"But that's expensive."

"Not really. Almost every place here, a beer is only 150 dinars [$1.41]."

I'm assuming he's living with his parents, so pays no rent. It's common to have three generations under one roof. During the Socialist years, two families routinely shared one apartment.

There are no trash days in Serbia. You take garbage to public dumpsters. The destitute dig through these to scavenge glass bottles and aluminum cans. I doubt they can afford to drink every day.

In Hong Kong and South Korea, old people collect cardboard boxes to resell. White haired and bent over, they push laden carts down busy streets. Even when clearly visible, bottom dwellers are not quite seen, not until you become one of them, usually.

Just launched into adulthood, the Caffe LoÃ... ¾a waiter anticipates an infinity of conquests and adventures. He's already run around a bit. Rome, Moscow, Vienna" Last year, he took a two-week vacation to Turkey.

"Serbs, Turkish, we have an ugly history, but Turkey is very nice, the food is great, and the people are very nice. It is the cheapest vacation. Many Serbs go."

He's been to Hungary three times. "Hungary, I don't like. Serbs don't like Hungarians too much..." He paused to think about it and reload his English. "We're Orthodox. They're Catholics. Orthodox and Catholics, there is a problem. We're close to Russians."

"But Serbs don't like Romanians."

"No," he laughed.

"They're Orthodox, and Serbs also don't like Bulgarians, right?"

"No," he laughed even harder.

"Neighbors are like that. Everywhere, you have neighbors hating each other. Well, not always, but usually."

"Like China and Japan."

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Linh Dinh's Postcards from the End of America has just been published by Seven Stories Press. Tracking our deteriorating socialscape, he maintains a photo blog.


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